Since opening its doors in 2008, Trishna has been wooing diners with contemporary Indian dishes from the coastal regions of South West India. It won its first Michelin Star in 2012 and has gone on to collect one each year since. Like its sister restaurant, Gymkhana, Trishna is the creation of chef-proprietor Karam Seth and last year Seth and his team returned their focus to Trishna. The interior has been revitalised, new dishes added to the menu and the wine list revamped.
The interior still has the pared back aesthetic of old but the rough walls and contemporary furniture have been joined by antique mirrors, bronze pendant lighting, marble top tables and banquette seating adjacent to the bar. It is a pleasant space with an informal air to it. And it attracts a diverse range of diners: locals, Londoners, business people and tourists, all who have one thing in common: an appreciation of innovative Indian cuisine made from the highest quality seasonal ingredients.
We have been dining at Trishna for a few years now and it has never disappointed, offering a diverse and well balanced menu of south Indian coastal classics and innovative new dishes. This time we decided to leave everything to the experts and chose the seven course Koliwada menu.
New for us within this tasting menu was the Aubergine Rasma, which offered an innovative twist on the classic rasam by adding smoked aubergine, curry leaf and fennel pakora. A Broccoli samosa that took the humble samosa to the next level, this Indian stable was transformed into a thing of great beauty, the crisp pastry wrapping held an unbelievably flavoursome broccoli filling. The Aloo Chat, another classic snack, gave my current favourite made by the team at Gymkhana a run for its money. However the two were sufficiently different and equally delicious, so there could be no clear winner. We also enjoyed a couple of our old favourites including the Paneer Tikka which remains mouth-wateringly good and the Kuska Tarkar Biryani, an aromatic dish of rice, jackfruit, lotus roots and pink peppercorn raita that is simply exquisite and provides the diner with a creative alternative to the traditional Biryani.
Wine is a big deal at Seth’s restaurants and the wine list here is extensive and full of classics and lesser known surprises. At Trishna every dish on the menu has a wine matched to it and our sommelier made some memorable suggestions by the glass, as required throughout the meal, adjusting them according to our personal taste as well as the demands of the dish. We were treated to the rather nice Billecart-Salmon, Brut Reserve; an interesting and delicious Viognier from Greece; a refreshing Rotgipfler from Austria and a superb Pinot Noir from Germany. Alternatively, there is a wine pairing menu to accompany the Kouwada menu, which comes highly recommended.
Trishna continues to be one of the best Indian restaurants in London and it deserves all the praise it gets. There is good food and excellent service here but more than this, there is a real sense of heart and passion in the place.
For more information about Trishna London please visit: http://www.trishnalondon.com/